Properly dressed for the Wild West

Exploring the world of cowboy boots which, while often considered a niche product, are popular with riders and fashionistas worldwide.

by Stuart Morgan

The history of decorated ‘cowboy boots’ (and, indeed, ‘cowgirl boots’) dates to the middle of the 19th century, when ranchers and cowboys in the American West required well-made footwear which could survive the demands of the job while providing sufficient traction on rugged terrain.

The fashion for highly decorated dress boots being worn by cowboys when in town started to develop around 170 years ago. Advertisements in fashion magazines from the 1850s and 1860s show the boot available with topstitching, geometric cutouts and an underslung heel. Originally hand-made entirely by local craftsmen, the growing popularity of this footwear led to manufacturers mass producing it using mechanised processes when these became available.

Today, these boots are still widely used both by working cowboys and ranchers, who depend on them as reliable functional footwear. They are also worn in Western riding and showing events. However, over the decades, cowboy boots have evolved to become an icon of US Western lifestyle and heritage, and as a fashion accessory worn around the world. The popularity of ‘Wild West’ shows and, later, Western movies, influenced styles that were often adopted by people who simply ‘liked the look’.

There are a number of specialised American-themed events in Europe and elsewhere at which manufacturers and suppliers showcase their latest products to appreciative consumers.

A wide choice

Wearers normally have the choice of the high ‘cowboy’ (or ‘riding’) heel – angled and usually over one inch high – the slightly lower (but still angled) ‘walking’ heel, or the low, squared-off ‘roper’ heel, which is similar to that used on ‘English riding boots’.

The decorated uppers of cowboy boots may vary in height. The shortest is the ‘roper’ style, which finishes just above the wearer’s ankle. This style developed in response to the needs of modern rodeo riders, particularly those participating in calf roping competitions, where the cowboy must be able to run to tie the calf as well as ride. The boot was less expensive, and it could be easily removed. The lace-up roper boot became popular as this method of securing prevented the boot from falling off too easily and provided more ankle support when on foot. However, there are safety issues involved because the laced boot will not slip off if a falling rider is hung up in a stirrup.

The most popular length is the mid-calf boot that prevents a Western saddle from rubbing on the rider’s ankle and calf. The tallest cowboy boots (which reach to just below the knee) are rarely used for actual horse riding, normally being reserved for fashion wear. Although the classic pull-on boot is still common, lace-up or zip-up boots have become popular.

Modern cowboy boots are available in practically all colours and, while traditionally made of smooth bovine leather, examples are also manufactured from more expensive leathers such as alligator, buffalo, eel, elk, lizard, ostrich, snake, stingray or even elephant.

The sky’s the limit

Although the majority of decorated cowboy boots on sale around the world are manufactured on factory production lines and may retail at just GBP 50 (USD 60) up to the hundreds of pounds/dollars, there are specialist bootmakers in the USA who take on individual commissions with price tags to match the time spent on the footwear’s creation. Handcrafting a basic boot can take some 400 individual steps, from cutting backstays to sewing inlays and overlays, then stretching wet vamps over lasts and hammering in lemon-wood pegs to secure the soles. This is a time-consuming skill, so customers are warned not to expect their custom boots for at least a few months, and in some cases well over a year.

Manufacturers of cowboy boots often turn their talents to producing amazing results, considering the limited materials they work with. A company in Texas was once asked to make a pair of boots with inlaid colour images of movie director Steven Spielberg, his actress wife Kate Capshaw and their children as a gift to music composer John Williams. Another bootmaker produced a USD 17,000 (GBP 14,000) pair for an enthusiastic sports fan. The design incorporated ticket stubs from the 16 Super Bowl American football matches the customer had personally attended.

That price tag pales into insignificance when considering the USD 75,000 (GBP 62,000) bill for a pair designed to trace the history of Mexico, which included no less than USD 18,000 (GBP 15,000)-worth of gold and silver coins. Even more eye-watering, a quick internet search reveals a US manufacturer of cowboy boots charging over USD 100,000 (GBP 82,000) per pair.

The variety of cowboy boots available suggests that their popularity remains unchecked – with Western riders, fashion-conscious consumers and wealthy businessmen alike.

Publishing Data

This article was originally published on page 10 of the March 2025 issue of SATRA Bulletin.

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