Forum explains the pathway to sustainability

Reviewing a successful SATRA event discussing this important topic which was recently held in central London.

by Nicola Pichel-Juan

SATRA’s second ‘Treading a sustainable pathway’ forum for the footwear industry took place in central London on 12th November 2024. Sixty delegates and speakers were welcomed from across the footwear value chain, industry bodies and academia to share knowledge and insights on how the footwear industry can become more sustainable.

The day began with a keynote address by Professor Christine White from De Montfort University, with a call to action for the industry in which she emphasised that there is no time to waste. Professor White’s address covered several key issues, including considering the end-of-life of a shoe right from the outset of the design and development process. She explained how such forethought can lead to footwear being effectively disassembled and recycled, and she also discussed the importance of a transition away from fossil-derived materials.

During the following session, Stephen Taylor, soil scientist and head of product circularity at Natural Fiber Welding highlighted the company’s ground rules for achieving genuine circularity with biomaterials. These policies require starting with natural inputs, staying ‘clean’ by avoiding the use of any toxins, and ending with the aim that at the end of their life, materials can provide nutrients for the growth of new plants. He also considered the innovative testing that is being undertaken to ensure that the materials being used in NFW’s products can be safely returned to the earth. 

Traceability and transparency were other key themes running through the day. For example, Deborah Taylor from the Sustainable Leather Foundation described key legislative challenges facing the leather industry. She went on to reveal why it is important for organisations to have a deep understanding of their supply chains, as well as a knowledge of the benefits that traceability can bring.

Further insights into sustainability

Sohag Salauddin (head of product at DigiProdPass) and Joanna Knight, pilot project coordinator from Technovative Solutions, then discussed the concept and application of digital product passports (DPPs). DPPs are expected to be required for all footwear products sold in the European Union by 2030 (please see the article ‘The use of digital product passports’ for further information on the purpose and use of DPPs).

Charlotte Pumford, regeneration lead at Vivobarefoot shared details of the company’s VMatrix tool. This is used to assess the sustainability credentials of different products across the categories of ‘end-of-life’, ‘complexity’, ‘materials’, ‘durability’ and ‘longevity’. In addition, Charlotte examined the sustainable design principles employed throughout the development of new products at Vivobarefoot to support designers and developers to make their material choices more regenerative.

Further practical insight was then provided by Catriona Stevenson, chief responsibility officer at Shoefabrik. This presentation highlighted the need to gain an understanding of the purpose served by a proposed new product, and how using 3D visualisations can reduce the need for physical samples. Catriona also explained how to choose responsible materials (while accepting that they may cost more), and consolidate the number of materials and components used across a range, as well as the importance of supplier partnerships to achieving sustainability goals.

The long and challenging journey undertaken by Will Verona, founder of PURIFIED Footwear to bring a plastic-free shoe to market was also discussed, before Santie de Klerk, senior market merchandiser at Carhartt, shared her experience of navigating the many legislative requirements relating to sustainability that all organisations are facing. Richard Peace, research and development director at Gen Phoenix, then explored how the company has successfully scaled sustainable material innovations within the footwear industry through collaboration with business partners down the supply chain.

The concluding talk

The final presentation of the day was by Simon Courtney – SATRA’s divisional manager for footwear – in which he explained details of a project being undertaken by SATRA’s innovation team in conjunction with a number of SATRA members, to understand the vital concept of durability for sustainability. 

The ‘Treading a sustainable pathway’ forum proved to be a highly informative and interesting day, as well as fantastic opportunity to meet other people from within the industry to share knowledge and experience on this critical subject.

Publishing Data

This article was originally published on page 26 of the January 2025 issue of SATRA Bulletin.

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